The study, led by scientists from Serbian cosmetics company DCP Hemigal, adds to the evidence for A. oleracea’s anti-wrinkle effects. Acmella oleracea L., also known as Spilanthes oleracea L., and Spilanthes acmella L. variety oleracea, has been touted as a natural alternative to Botox for firming the skin and reducing the presence of wrinkles.
The potential benefits are linked to the plant’s main active molecule N-alkylamide spilanthol.
The new study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, found that a “novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums” composed of an “innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate)” combined with an Acmella oleracea extract led to “noticeable reduction/improvement” in skin wrinkles around the eyes and corners of the mouth in as little as two weeks.
The researchers tested the rheological parameters of the proposed serum and found that it displayed “favorable shear-thinning flow behavior”. The serum also presented good stability data at the end of the DMTA (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis) test.
A serum containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier was to test in in vivo tests in 16 healthy adults (12 women and four men).
“In vivo investigations demonstrated the overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety profile of the tested serum sample and noticeable improvement/reduction in all analyzed skin wrinkle parameters, thus confirming a beneficial effect on the appearance of periorbital and perioral expression lines and wrinkles,” wrote the researchers.